welcome fall

Ruggeri, ‘Santo Stefano’, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene….one the really cool, interesting facets of learning the history of Italian wine is how interconnected families and vineyards are in fortifying quality and tradition. For instance, the Bisol family is synonymous with having the largest estate vineyards and land in the prosecco area, now upgraded status of DOCG! So, even though Ruggeri is another famous prosecco label, it is also owned by the Bisol family, just under a separate label and also considered one of the grandest in the Veneto. The Bisol estate focuses almost exclusively on Prosecco, the iconic Italian sparkling wine produced on the hillsides of Veneto. This estate is just over 50 hectares, which is enormous for the tiny prosecco area where most vineyards average around 3 hectares..Prosecco may also be linked to the Pucino grape of Roman times, which is thought to be the case. “The Prosecco grape cluster, elongated and lightly packed with long thin stalks sustaining the lightly sun-kissed grapes, is itself as delicate and elegant as the wine it produces. It is harvested late, in October, together with small quantities of the Verdisa and Perera grape which are equally represented in the vineyard and important for their acidity and aroma respectively.”



Bisol Timeline……

The Ruggeri winery was established in 1950 by Giustino Bisol, whose family boasts a deeply rooted, centuries-old tradition in viticulture in the Valdobbiadene area.
The place-name Case Bisoi (that is the Houses of the Bisols) is to be found on the oldest maps of the area, in the heart of the zone now known as Cartizze and once called Chartice or Gardizze. It is here, according to property/tax assessment documents in the public archives, that the Bisol family has been cultivating vines since 1542.
In the 1800s Eliseo Bisol left further documentary evidence of his activity as a distiller. Around 1920, his son Luigi Bisol, an oenologist, built a winery in Montebelluna. In 1950, Luigi's son Giustino Bisol established the Ruggeri winery in S. Stefano di Valdobbiadene to produce and promote the semi-sparkling Prosecco and Cartizze wines. In 1993 the winery was relocated to new, large and ergonomically-designed premises.
The Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G. (Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin) grape is grown in the northern part of the Marca Trevigiana in a zone extending from Colle Umberto to Valdobbiadene, the ancient zone of Valduplavensis, “...where the vine blossoms eternally...” (St.Venantius Fortunatus 535-603 AD).
Valdobbiadene is indisputably one of the most interesting vine-growing areas in terms of quality and indeed its vineyards have always produced the most prestigious and fragrant Prosecco.
The presence of many old and sometimes very old vines contributes to raising the quality of the Valdobbiadene vineyards. Thanks to its considerable root system, an old Prosecco vine, which may be defined as “the memory of the region”, successfully copes with the varied climate so typical of the Valdobbiadene hills, thereby ensuring constantly high quality in all sorts of soil and weather conditions.


Umani Ronchi, ‘Plenio’, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Marche- with this special order, we were able to reduce the price by almost half and be able to pour it by the glass at SPQR. The quality and richness is perfect for the fall flavors we are starting to offer and the cooler weather.. Umani Ronchi is a pretty large outfit but, their top quality wines are not. This is the Riserva from Umani Ronchi, which made it’s debut in 1995. The word Plenio is related to the Latin word, Plenum, which refers to a full and complex character. During the 18 months of ageing, six are spent in bottle, one year in large tonneau. Flavors are bitter almond, ripe golden delicious apples, honey, aniseed and a rich wine with balanced with firm structure from the higher vineyards …..



Fratelli Alessandria, Pelaverga, Verduno, Piemonte- hailing from the mountaintop and exclusive hometown of Pelaverga, Verduno, the Alesandria brothers only produce 5000 cases on 14 hectares per year and are a 5th generation wine producing family. A small portion of that is actually Pelaverga. They are highly regarded for their cru Barolo bottlings. This Pelaverga is medium bodied, black and white pepper and tangy, sharp fruits like cranberry and raspberry, this is a classic style of Pelaverga.



Colternzio Lagrein, Gries, Alto Adige – one of the reasons this wine is great quality and value is that, like most wines of the Alto Adige, it is from the cooperative, made from grapes from the Grieser vineyard, in the Bolzano Basin. Alto Adige is the only region in Italy, where the government doesn’t run cooperatives, it is run by the people. It smells of black cherry and stewed black plums, with a slightly medicinal edge along with some spice and cedar from the barrels along with dry tobacco and forest-floor notes.



Nicolis, ‘Seccal’, Valpolicella Ripasso Classico, DOC, Veneto- grape blend breakdown is Corvina 70% - Rondinella 20% - Molinara 5% - Croatina 5% … The grapes for this wine are from the ‘Seccal’ vineyard on the Nicolis estate. Ripasso is the second fermentation name I like to refer to as a ‘Baby Amarone’, which adds a boldness of flavor along with fruits that have higher alcohol thus are slightly sweet flavor. I think this is a great choice for people looking for a hand-crafted, romantic wine that is very decadent and rich in complexity. Red ruby, color, generous, warming, wet leaf, mushroom, prune, black cherry notes and dry finish even though the mid-palate is slightly sweet from the secondary fermentation as well.







Bressan, Schioppettino, Friuli – one of the worls’d few to produce wine from Schippettino, also known as Ribolla Nera. This grape originated from the Rozasso abbey in the Colli Orientalli of Friuli. There is a blackberry, herbal and black pepper quality to this wine. The slow and steady vilification process makes this a really special bottle to offer guests. The calcerous soil shows in the iron notes of the wine reflected in a leathery, bloody element often associated with nebbiolo. The Schioppettino is a red grape grown predominately in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of Italy. Also known as the Ribolla Nera, Schioppettino literally means “gunshot” or “little crack”. Records show that red wine made from the Schioppettino was used at marriage ceremonies back to 1282. The grape was nearly lost to extinction thanks mostly to the phylloxera epidemic. Only



Here are winemaking notes….serious natural winemaker who also makes a verduzzo secco Wine Making: Grapes are de-stalked and brought to must by way of soft-pressing; extremely long maceration with principal fermentation along with the grape skins, refrigerated with well water at a controlled temperature not exceeding 25C (77F). After racking, the wine undergoes an ulterior 35 days of fermentation. The wine is then stored in stainless steel tanks, followed by aging for at least 2 more years in 2000 liter oak casks. After bottling, groups of 500 bottles are placed in large chests, which are then stored in a temperature controlled warehouse for additional aging.

Le Montecchia, ‘Forzate’, Raboso, IGT, Veneto- the grapes of this wine are Raboso Pave and Raboso Veronese. This wine, which is native to the Veneto, is harvested at the end of October. In the past, its grapes were hung in the kitchenand, on account of their resistant skin, could be eaten until Easter. The wines are left to dry partially on the vine and then cold-soaked fermented on skins for over two weeks. This is a round..medium-full bodied wine with baking spices, marascha cherries and walnut husk kind of flavor.. Raboso is known for its heavy tannins and high acid..not quite as extreme as teroldego but, in the same vein. Raboso Veronese produces greater yields and is more widely planted. Raboso del Piave, also known as Friularo or Friulara, produces a more austere wine than does the Raboso Veronese grape. It is not very common to see a wine from 100 percent Raboso. WE’ve seen it in the Col di Salici Rosato for instance in the past.



Terre del Gioa, Marzemino, Trento - the Armani family has been producing wine on all sides of the Adige River for centuries. They actually produce wine in Trentino-Alto Adige, Veneto and Friuli today. Their deep roots to the past have kept them dedicated to the traditional vines of these areas. The Marzemino is something we find really fits with our style and food and SPQR since we opened. It’s smooth, fruity, medium-bodied and very strawberry, violet and delicate in its red fruit flavors. There is a certain wildness that you get from it as though the grapes were foraged alongside some fresh herbs and berries…that slight brambly character. Marzemino Gentile is one of the most interesting grape varieties of Trentino. Known as the Mozart wine (as mentioned in Don Giovanni) is typical of the area of Ala and Rovereto where the soil has a characteristic basaltic rocks and therefore full of manganese.



Umani Ronchi, ‘Cùmaro’, Rosso Conero, Marche – not only is this wine one of the most important wines in the story of Umani Ronchi, it is always slated in tre bicchierri as a Rosso Conero leader year after year. Along with the Plenio, the price reduction of the preorder allowed us to offer it at a great price for one of Italy’s greats. It was created in the mid eighties to celebrate the Montepulciano variety of vine, and the Conero area close to the sea with highly calcareous soils. The name Cùmaro is a tribute to Mount Conero, komaros in Greek, which means ‘arbutus’: an evergreen shrub which grows freely in its woodlands. Since 2004 the wine has been entitled to the appellation “DOCG (Guaranteed and Controlled Denomination of Origin) Conero Riserva”.Variety 100% Montepulciano

First year of production 1985….Flavors have black plum, red currants, dark chocolate, vanilla, leather and slight smoky quality from the high mineralogy of the soil.

NEW DESSERT WINE!! 7/28

Zerbina ‘Arrocco’, Albana di Romagna, Passito – Candied papaya, candied pineapple, light, high acid.

Antonelli, Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito, Umbria 2007 – Coffee, tannins, blackberry.

Orsolani, ‘Sule’ Erbaluce Passito, Calsuo, Piemonte, 2002 – Herbed olives, dried oregano, ‘fernety’ finish. Light to medium body.

Donnafugata, Ben Rye, Passito di Pantelleria (moscato di alexandria), Sicilia, 2007 – Dried apricots, fleshy on the palatte.

Casale Cento Corvi, Giacche Rosso, Passito, Lazio 2006 – Hot clay, baking spice, savory, meaty nose, chocolate, dry.

Principe Pallavinci, ‘Stillato’, Malvasia Puntinata, Lazio 2006 – Brown sugar, nutty, honey, apricots, toasty.

Corte Normanna ‘Porta dell’Olmo’ Falanghina Passito, Sannio, Campania, 2007 - Fresh apricot, apple, orange peel, saline, white pepper. Light +

Volpaia, Vinsanto del Chianti Classico, (sangiovese) Toscana 2003 – Molasses, savory, soy, nutty.

JULY

Dorigo Refosco, Friuli 2004
Girolamo Dorigo uses extremely low crop yields and new oak. Leather and earth notes, black and red plums, spice, full bodied. Assertive, yet smooth.

Ca del Baio ‘Asili’ Barbaresco, Piemonte, 2007. (nebbiolo)
The Ca’ del Baio estate favors a soft, elegant, fruit-driven style of Barbaresco made from Nebbiolo vines that range between 15 and 50 years old. This wine shows dried roses, spices and raspberries on the nose leading to a full body with concentrated, clean fruit. Long and elegant, this Barbaresco iis supported by finessed, silky-textured tannins.

JULY

Parusso---
This wine is made from 100 % Nebbiolo, cultivated in vineyards located at Ornati and Mosconi in the area of Monforte d'Alba. The vines are grown at 350-450 meters altitude and aged in small, lightly toasted oak barrels for 12-15 months. The winemaker is Marco Parusso, who is very verbal about his opinion that buying yeasts is makes much better wines than the native yeasts he has used in the past. The color is bright ruby red, and on the nose, one gets intense floral notes, such as lilac and rose, and even a little vanilla from the toasted oak. The palate is "warm and velvety" and well-balanced. The winemaker suggests pairing this with warm starters, and roasted meats of both the red and white variety.

Valle dell Acate Zagra---This blend of 70% Grillo and 30% Inzolia is grown at a 19th century estate in Sicilia. The winemaker, Gaetana Jacono, is a 6th generation winemaker. The estate also grows a huge amount of blood oranges in addtion to grape vines. Jacono is famous for revitalizing viticultural efforts by substantive replanting of native Sicilian varietals. Most of them are organically grown in the Milaro soil (calcareous sandstone interwoven w clay).
The wine is aged for 4 months in stainless steel barrels. It's light straw in color, with jasmine and white flowers on the nose as well as exotic fruits and citrus. It's dry and fresh-tasting with great acid balance and goes very well with all seafood dishes and vegetable pastas.

Tiberio Pecorino 2008
Based in Abruzzo, terrific as an aperitif as it's very dry, slightly salty, fresh and crisp on the finish but it's great with food because it's not cloying. It opens up to reveal a hint of dried herbs (rosemary and sage) and spice with some luscious fruit too, but it's certainly not a fruit-driven wine. This winery helped to recover the ancient vines indigenous to the area (along with Moscato di Castiglione). Pairs well with mild cheeses and white meats.

CIOLLI - "Silene" Cesanese 2006
From Lazio, this red wine is balanced and unoaked. The appellation is Cesanese di Olevano romano. It is medium bodied, displays notes of red petals, blackcherry and wild red berries together with light herbaceous notes; it is soft and elegant with a savory fruity finish. 10,000 bottles produced.

2006 Montecappone (Sangiovese)
caramelised dried red fruit, some undergrowth and chocolate. More dried, overripe and partly preserved berries on the palate, oak and undergrowth,, not particularly deep, slightly prominent sandy tannins, attractive finish.


2006 Edi Kante Malvasia
90 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: "The 2006 Malvasia emerges with lovely nuance and detail in its aromas and flavors. The Malvasia is made in a more mid-weight, focused style than the VitWow I love this Malvasia, it has such a unique mineral character, it is purposeful, long, complex, delicate and ethereal as well as powerful. (*I'll pay someone a large sum of money to say that!!!!!) How can he do this? Just a wonderful expression of Malvasia Istriana which is a very different grape than Malvasia Bianca, much more focus..." (10/09)
Edi Kante's wines come from Friuli but if you don't know the Carso Plateau you don't know anything about these wines. Sure Colli Orientali, Collio and Isonzo all have great producers and have intriguing characteristics but the Carso is something extraordinarily different and very special. The Carso Plateau is a 165 square mile outcrop of limestone that gives the wines a vibrant, scintillating feel and heavenly aromatics.
The wines are made using a very delicate touch of Old French oak Tonneaux and stainless steel but don't have an expression of wood aromatics at all. Kante is a God amongst producers in this area, highly lauded by Italian critics and has never been concerned with shipping his wines to America. Only through the patience and passion of a local importer did we get these wines. You owe it to yourself to try at least one of these, I know they aren't cheap but wow what an experieince. Greg St.Clair K&L's Italian

Laura Aschero Pigato 2007(we have 2008)
Laura Aschero Pigato 2007 Riviera Ligure di Ponente is a seriously vibrant native Ligurian with really intriguing scents of fresh herbs and lush vegetation and then real tension on the palate. Made by Laura Aschero's son Marco Rizzo in Pontedassio. The 2008 is imported into the UK by Enotria, who advise that Swig (www.swig.co.uk) will offer it at £21 a bottle, which seems a tad steep, though so is the terraced hillside on which this beauty is grown.

Bonavita, ‘Faro’, Messina, Sicilia 2007
Faro Bonavita 2007 has a deep, red but not impenetrable colour. The fragrance is wide-ranged with definite notes of ripe red fruit and spicy tones from pepper to cloves, with light hints of underbrush to close. Its flavour is full-bodied, generous and quite tannic, giving it mellowness and structure, good minerality and a fruity aftertaste.

6/14/2010 updates

BTG
Colle Stefano Rosato- 100% Sangiovese rose from Metalica region of Marche. Clean and dry with crisp minerality. Crisp candied red fruit- light body.

La Tunella Ribolla Gialla- Great for Chardonnay drinkers- M+, round, yellow fruit, green apple, acidic

Casale del Giglio Petite Manseng- Aromatic, apricot, quince,spicy, staw, mineral, well structured, acidic

Ioppa Colline Navaresi Vespolina- Dark violet-red, nose is meaty, dark berries and a touch of florality. Fruity wine in the mouth, light tannins.

Nifo Aglianico- from Taburno (inland Campania –little riper and richer) Med+, dark cherry fruit, little leathery texture, tannin full on the palate.

BTB
Scagliola Chardonnay-Slightly richer body, tastes like there is a little oak but there isn’t any, Golden delicious apple fruit with a little meadow flower, peach skin.

Niedrist Sauvignon- apricots, peaches, and flowers, steely

Taburno Falanghina-- Crisp and fruity, nectarine, citrus rind and white pepper

Casale Mater Matuta-Syrah/petite verdot blend from Lazio -- ruby red, black cherry jam, blueberry, plum, black currant, violet, carob and black pepper; vanilla, cocoa, licorice and eucalyptus. smooth, round and very balanced and full body. Ages in barrique for 22-24 months followed by 6-8 months of aging in bottle

Speri Sant Urbano Valpolicella Superiore- Single vineyard, grapes dried for 20 days before pressing, dark and dusty,earthy nose, masculine and earthier fruit but plush and full, red licorice- full bodied.

Moccagatta Barbaresco Bric Balin- Crushed berries, black fruit, licorice,tobacco, oak. Med +

Sassi Neri, Conero Riserva-Full dark fruit, earthy, coffee
Motta,Giove, Ciliegiolo-Med, Fresh red cherry, clean and juicy

Ottavi, Vernaccia Nera- M+, dark backberry, plum, herbal, peppercorn, gamey, white,black and green pepper, old french

Argiano Brunello-100% Sangiovese grosso- organic, biodynamic estate run by a countess. Full bodied, earthy, dusty, tons of graphite/gravel minerality, nice strong but elegant tannins and texture.

Tenuta La Viola, Petra, Sangiovese- Full,stewy fruit,dark earth, tobacco, little dusty- fyi lots of sediment.

5/27/2010

New wine by the glass
Bibi Graetz- 100% Ansonica- Artwork on label is his, artist turned producer.
Made from 100% Ansonica grapes grown on the Island of Giglio (a.k.a. Inzolia in Sicily). As a child, Bibi used to spend summers on Giglio Island, a small sparsely inhabited island in the Tuscan Archipelago that comes to life in the summer, reachable only by boat, surrounded by crystal-clear waters. Giglio is about 6 square miles.
Tasting notes- Not much on the nose, warm lemon, yeast, salty, acidic and dry

Damiano Cesanese- M+ (bit lighter than last), Cherry, Rose, Iron, Rusty, Herbal, Pepper and Acidic

New by the Bottle
Gattinara, Nebbiolo
Tasting notes- Red fruit, blackberry, plum, liquorice, hint of vanilla, cream and leather- full and slight acidic.

DESSERT WINES

Traversa, Brachetto, Piemonte
--Frizzante, pink, strawberry and rhubarb paired with Gelato, nice with pie
Luciano Landi, Lacrima di Morro d’Alba Passito, Le Marche---100% Lacrima di Morro d’Alba,inky, rose petal, lavender, violet, blueberry, pomegranate, and cinnamon, ripe dark berries and wild flowers. Paired with Baci
Planeta, Moscato di Noto, Sicilia
---Dried fruit, mango, dates, orange peel, and spicy notes of tea and ginger,vanilla cream,dense and thick, lively acidity. Paired with panna cotta
Gianni Doglia, Moscato d’Asti, Piemonte
----Wild flowers and apricot, bitter marmalade, dried apples, and spices. Not very sweet, balanced acidity and a medium body. Long and elegant finish, orange zest and flowers. Paired with Pie
Librandi 'Le Passule' Mantonico Passito, Calabria
---100% Mantonico, an ancient local grape, dried and aged in wood. Poached pear, floral, bright and lighter. Paired with Bavarese
D’Ancona, ‘Cimillýa’, Passito di Pantelleria, Moscato di Alessandria, Sicilia 2004
---Harvested by hand-balanced,elegant, honey, apricot, dates, nuts, hops. Paired with Crespelle
Pieropan, ‘Le Colombare’, Recioto di Soave, Veneto 2004
-Apricot jam and honey, nutmeg and flowers. Paired with Torta
Cornarea, ‘Tarasco’, Roero Arneis Passito, Piemonte, 2005
-Quince Jam, toasted hazelnuts, honey. Paired with cheeses
Cantine del Castello Conti, Elixir,Piemonte NV-Herbal & medicinal Paired with Biscotti